Where to start? Normally a chronological record would suffice but instead I’m tempted to write in order of the events that made the three days in Washington one of the highlights of my time in US so far. That means that rather than starting with the tour with Nicole (not either of the camp Nicoles), I’ll start with the dinner at her grandparent’s house.
I’ve been forewarned about the behaviour of more southern families. The, to a Brit, reprehensible taboo of people popping in and out of other people’s houses and getting fed, or indeed feasted, and having a wonderful time. Nicole’s grandparents are probably the most wonderful combination of welcoming hosts, good cooks and adamant conversationalists I’ve ever had the pleasure of being guest to. We enjoyed ribs, macaroni cheese, fresh (oh, my goodness, fresh!) vegetables and a slab of cheese cake washed down with New York variety dry red wine. The tour around the Washington Air and Space Smithsonian, and the other main monuments had been tiring enough to guarantee that a home cooked meal would drive us into the living room for a long chat about Nicole’s Mum’s MBA, college football, and plenty about the UK, but not before Nicole’s grandfather took us to see his picture in Vietnam uniform, and began reminiscing over his children and grandchildren. Nicole dragged us back to the living room but I would happily have listened to Mike until he’d run out of family members to show off.
During the last three days we’ve seen the Air and Space and The Natural History Smithsonians and the International Spy Museum. As one would expect the Air and Space Smithsonian was packed with an amazing collection of memorabilia from the Apollo and Gemini eras, space suits, space craft, even models of some of the Russian spacecraft of the time... my heart stopped for a split second when I saw Voyager suspended from the ceiling (not the real Voyager of course, that’s gone where no man has gone before).
The International Spy Museum on the other hand had its ups and downs. Firstly, it’s the best small museum I’ve been in – well laid out, thoroughly researched and packed to the roof with interesting stuff – but in contrast to all the Smithsonians it’s not free. The second set of ups and downs came about 15 minutes into our visit in the form of the earthquake. Since the previous exhibits had had light and sound effects , when the floor started undulating, the light-fittings shaking and exhibits rocking, I thought it was another immersive trick... then a staff member rushed us out into the street. The effects of the quake seemed minimal at the time: we stood in the street for no more than 15 minutes before being ushered back inside to resume the tour... it wasn’t until later that afternoon, wandering around the Washington Monument that we noticed there was a crack. A full 60% of the length of the monument, the side facing the White House, bore a very visible crack. Cordons roped off the monument on all sides. With a hurricane due to hit North Carolina while I’m out here I’m beginning to realise that I’m going to experience more of the wonders of America than I bargained for.
There’s little I need to say to recommend the Smithsonians. Even if you had to pay for them, they’d still be the finest collection of curiosity quenchers available to man. They’re all within walking distance of one another, the buildings rival the magnificence of the V&A, and everything about them screens “See me!”. It’s a major disappointment that into three days (two lie-ins and plenty of photographic distraction) I was only able to fit in three... I hope to return to see the Holocaust exhibit and all the others, not to mention the numerous nooks and crannies I missed.
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